Ever since I moved to New York two years ago (!!!), food has come to occupy an ever-growing place in my consciousness. Every city can boast superb restaurants, and many can rightfully claim to exceed New York in one respect or another, but none can match the dynamism of New York dining. It's been a year and a half since I last posted a list of my favorite NYC food experiences -- an eternity in New York dining-time -- and I'm well overdue for yet another orgy of culinary superlatives.
-- The Transformative Dining Experience: Lombardi's Pizza (Nolita, Mott and Spring)
People can (and vehemently will) disagree on whether Lombardi's is the best pizza in New York, or even whether New York pizza is superior to other types. I'm still unsure of my own position, but it wasn't until I experienced Lombardi's that I finally understood the concept of the "New York pizza" and why it evokes such passions. The simplicity of Lombardi's pizza brings into clarity the importance of oven technique and the oven itself. You can discuss the sauce, the crust, the cheese, and the toppings all you like, but until you're discussing the oven, you aren't talking about New York pizza.
-- The Hidden Treasures: Nan Shiang Dumpling House (Flushing, Prince and 39th Ave.) and "Fried Dumplings" (Chinatown, Mosco and Mulberry)
I had previously cited New York hamburgers as an "embarrassment of riches", but dumplings may be the hidden treasure. Nan Shiang in Flushing serves the best soup dumplings I've had in my life -- hands down, bar none, no doubt, boo-ya, etc. etc. They are hand-made to order in plain view, which is important because it means they aren't fraudulently augmenting the soupiness by either steaming with ice cubes or injecting soup after the fact. It's pure buttery liquified pork-fat bliss.
The fried dumpling carry-out on Mosco alley is an entirely different experience -- five fried dumplings for a dollar, served out of a hole-in-the wall of questionable cleanliness by a cadre of industrious Chinese ladies. What do you expect for A DOLLAR?
-- The New Yorkification: Fette Sau (Williamsburg, Metropolitan and Havenmeyer)
"Only in New York" is an overused cliche, but it speaks to the way the city can receive something from another place and make it its own. Fette Sau is ostensibly a German barbeque restaurant, but to describe it as such misses the point entirely: it is a New York barbeque. Packed to the brim at communal tables with youthful patrons losing themselves in whiskey flights and pork belly, it's a celebration of life in the city.
-- The Expedition: DDM Migliore Restaurant (Flushing, Depot Rd. and 164th St.)
One reason why eating in New York is so rewarding is that it can frequently be combined with urban exploration of the neighoborhoods and ethnic enclaves. If you take the LIRR out to East Flushing (Broadway stop), you emerge into a large Korean community. This oddly name restaurant (at least, in English) serves only three dishes: pork belly, barbeque pork, and beef intestine. These are cooked on a large round grill together with kimchi and vegetables, and served with an array of condiments that you can stuff into a lettuce leaf together with the meat and consume like a hot pocket. After you're done with the meat, they offer bimbimbop (fried rice), cooked on the grilll in the sauces and remains of your main course. Dericious, and the city is full of such rewards for the willing explorer.
You can see a full display of every restaurant I've eaten at in NYC on this map. But I'd be remiss if I didn't at least give quick shout-outs to the canneloni bolognese at Piccolo Angelo (West Village, Hudson and Jane), the sushi "bombs" (a cross between a roll and nigiri) at Bozu (Williamsburg, Grand and Havemmeyer), the delightful counter service and Japense curry at Curry-Ya (East Village, E. 10th btw 2nd and 3rd Ave.), and the all-around superb dining experience in the beautiful dining room at Dressler (Williamsburg, Broadway and Bedford).
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